We found it by missing an exit. Two hours beyond the last gas station, a blue highway sign pointed toward a state whose name does not appear on any map we own. Ten miles later there was a welcome center, a flag and a gift shop selling refrigerator magnets shaped like somewhere we had never been.

WELCOME TO ???

The state sign had been recently painted, except for the name, which was covered by a brown rectangle. A woman at the visitor desk handed us a brochure with the same rectangle. When asked where we were, she said, “You’re here,” which was accurate and unhelpful.

THE GIFT SHOP KNOWS

Souvenirs included blank license-plate keychains, snow globes containing desert and shirts reading only “I WENT THERE.” We purchased a mug. The receipt lists sales tax but no state abbreviation.

TRAVEL ADVISORY

Gas: available. Cell service: excellent until you try to share your location. Lodging: one motel, vacancy sign permanently on. State bird: employee would not say.

FIELD GUIDE

WE TRIED TO LEAVE

Our navigation app routed us in a circle past the same welcome center three times. On the fourth pass, the attendant waved. We eventually found the interstate by following a delivery truck whose plates were covered with magnetic rectangles.

Back home, the mug has no manufacturer mark and does not appear in photographs taken with one specific phone. Tourism officials from all fifty acknowledged states declined to claim it. We are keeping the mileage receipt.